Eucalyptus Burl Soubriquet

Eucalyptus Burl Soubriquet

from $350.00

Handmade in America, I designed and made all the parts. For more information on this particular model, see here and here.

I also did an explanatory video.

This is a fountain pen that is designed around the Zebra G dip nib, with provision for other nibs; You get to make your selection before you purchase.

To maximize this pen’s writing functionality, at will, you can swap in other “screw-in ****JoWo #6**** nib units” into this pen. Now, you can use a Zebra G, or many other nibs! You are almost unbounded. If you have questions, please contact me.

Notes :

  1. Multiple pens are shown to show wood variation.

  2. The Eucalyptus Burl I used for this run is all over the place as a burl. Some parts look astonishing and flawless (to my eyes) and some are very “rustic” or “burly”. I show what I mean about this in the video linked above. Wood is as its grain does; when the grain is straight, the wood can be strong, stable and consistent. A burl is none of these things. This burl wood exhibits incredible variety, but there are holes, filled splits, and numerous parts of the visible pen where the wood simply was never there, and you will see that. I cannot photograph every possibility of what the wood can be, and describing it defies words. Heed this if you decide to purchase the most beautiful and complicated pen I’ve ever done.

  3. To mitigate the difficulties of working with such a beautiful, but structurally deficient wood, I resin stabilized the wood before manufacture; I dehydrated it to 0% moisture, impregnated the material under vacuum with a thermosetting resin, removed the vacuum and let it soak up more resin, thereupon, the resin impregnated product was heat-cured.

  4. Semi-gloss/matte oil based finish.

  5. Filling system is screw-actuated piston. (Kovacs.)

  6. The filling system reservoir is Cellulose Acetate and though more environmentally friendly than acrylic plastic, it is quite stainable, so be forewarned.

  7. Ensure the piston screw is all the way down (without over tightening!) before you try to screw the filling mechanism into the barrel. If it’s not, you won’t be able to put the barrel on. Don’t try to force the barrel on if it won’t screw in all the way.

  8. Once the filler is screwed in, snug it gently. Only tighten it enough to keep from coming loose when you take off the cap. Don’t HULK OUT.

  9. Don’t ever unscrew the knob without a nib collar in place, the piston will unscrew, you’ll never get it back in there without the right tool.

  10. Each run is improved from the last, and there will be differences between what images are shown and the item you receive. Here, there is no ink window, and new ball clips.

  11. Because I’ve taken away the ink window, I gave the filling system triple start threads, so you can access it more rapidly than before.

Nib:
Out for now.
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